After experiencing atypical pre-flight anxiety, after getting all the way to the check-in terminal and realizing that I’d left my passport at home, after hurrying back home and retrieving the passport, after very efficient passage through every security checkpoint, after spending the Dulles-Frankfurt leg sitting next to a jittery (but polite) neighbor whose twitching and elbowing ruled out good sleeping, after arriving at the charming little airport in Linz, I’m ensconced in my hotel and about to conk out before evening festivities.

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